Even though authentic South Asian fare has been in vogue in New York City for quite some time, it’s been hard to find fare of Sri Lanka outside of Staten Island. Now, thanks to Lungi (1136 First Avenue at East 62 Street) from restaurateur and Chef Albin Vincent, with Chef Vasantha Kumar from Tamil Nadu and Sous Chef Andrew Simethy from Kerala, diners need look no further than Midtown East. The concept blends the cooking styles of South India and Sri Lanka and reflects Vincent’s cultural upbringing, growing up in Kanyakumari, India, with deep roots in Sri Lanka. His culinary journey is rich with stories from his grandmother, a cook who instilled his passion for food from a young age, teaching him the art of traditional Sri Lankan dishes.
Chef Vincent and Kumar curate a menu intended to transport diners into the homes and side street shacks of the native lands. The menu begins with short eats of kothu (small and medium dishes) like Sri Lankan Deviled Paneer tossed in banana chili peppers and Fish Cutlets, little morsels of spicy tuna fish, and potato filling inside a thin, crispy shell as well as Kanyakumari Nethali Varuval, marinated fried anchovies. As a weekend special, there’s Sura Puttu, steamed shredded baby shark meat stir-fried with shallots, eggs, spices, and curry leaves. As befits a South Asian restaurant, there’s a generous selection of rice pancakes: Hoppers, composed of fermented rice batter and coconut, most commonly served with eggs or string noodles; Dosas, large folded pancakes made of sourdough; and Idli cakes that lean more savory and are soft in texture. All are perfect for mopping up curries and tempering spicier dishes. Further into the menu are the larger dishes, Biryani and Roast, which include Lamb Lamprais and Thalappakatti Mutton biryani with raita.
On weekends, the restaurant hosts an afternoon feast, where patrons dine communally on banana leaves. This meal pays homage to the traditional South Indian Virunndhu, often held at home during religious festivals and wedding celebrations. The $45 feast includes an appetizer, karis, rice, biryani, pickle, papadum, and dessert. Virundu has a slew of health benefits, including a dosage of antioxidants from the banana leaf itself that support skin and gut health. Banana leaves are also highly appetizing and a hygienic alternative to plates serving a large group of people.
Libations include the Coconut Guava Martini and Ceylon Tiger, which incorporates arrack, amaro, angostura bitters, fresh lemon juice, gomme syrup, and egg whites. The ceilings are artisan-woven bamboo mats complemented by dangling Wabi-Sabi lamps, creating a warm tone that evokes South Asian evenings. The 1,700-square-foot space seats up to 80 guests and features a backyard patio with greenhouse roofing to illuminate the room.
Lungi will be open Monday through Sunday 12- 11 pm.
